Claire Nottage
06 December 2024
Tucked away between Falmouth and the Lizard Peninsula, Helford is a tranquil paradise on Cornwall’s south coast that is a world away from the bustling beaches of the north coast and, along with some other Cornish gems, such as the Eden Project and Land’s End, is well worth a visit.
The picturesque Helford River, edged by lush, semi-tropical gardens, leafy wooded valleys and secluded coves, is home to a wealth of wildlife, including birds such as herons and egrets as well as deer, seals and even dolphins. It’s no wonder that this stunning corner of Cornwall was the inspiration for Frenchman’s Creek, the romantic novel written by Daphne du Maurier.
The area offers plenty to explore, either on foot or on the water, with kayaking, sailing, and SUP, which are all popular activities along the river. The beautiful gardens of Trebah and Glendurgan are home to a wondrous array of sub-tropical plants, and you can get up close with some of the river’s resident seals at the Seal Sanctuary in Gweek. With several charming riverside pubs to choose from, there is also ample opportunity to simply sit back with a drink and take in the breathtaking beauty of Helford.
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Helford FAQs
Who lives in Helford?
Helford is currently home to two giants of the music world: former Queen drummer Roger Taylor and musical lyricist Tim Rice. Other famous Helford visitors include singer Kylie Minogue who filmed her music video Flower here, actress Caroline Quentin and musician Pete Townshend.
What is the history of Helford village?
For centuries this tiny village was once a busy port, used by smugglers, traders and fishermen alike. The area was the inspiration for novelist Daphne du Maurier’s book, Frenchman’s Creek. During the second World War, the Helford River was used as a base for the operations of the French Resistance.
Why is Helford famous?
Historically famous for the export of Cornish tin and for the illicit operations of smugglers, today Helford is renowned for its natural beauty and as a popular retreat of the rich and famous.
How do you cross the Helford River?
The Helford ferry runs an on-demand service across the river between Helford Passage and Helford Village from 9.30am to 5pm daily, from the beginning of April until the end of October. Payment is taken on board by cash or card. To call the ferry, simply wait either outside the Ferry Boat Inn on the north side or at the end of Helford Point on the south side and open the yellow sign to alert the ferryman.
Can you swim in Helford River?
Helford River is home to numerous little bays that are ideal for a swim. Helford Passage Beach and pebbly Grebe Beach are both lovely spots for a dip. Bosahan Cove, on the south side of the river, is only accessible via a mile-long walk along the coastal path, but the peace and quiet of this woodland-backed beach is worth it.
Activities and things to do in Helford
If you prefer small coves to vast beaches, then there are plenty to choose from along the estuary, perfect for paddling or a swim in the calm and gentle water.
The calm waters are also suited to gentler water sports, such as kayaking and SUP, where you can glide along and enjoy the pretty riverbanks. There are several kayaking and SUP schools along the river where you can hire equipment and go out with a qualified teacher.
From rowing boats to dinghies, the estuary is also hugely popular for sailing, with places to hire water vessels dotted along the length of the river. When it comes to thoughts of racing across the water though, be aware that the speed limit on the Helford River is just 6 knots.
For those less inclined to be out on the water and preferring instead to look at it from dry land, there are plenty of scenic riverside walks to enjoy along the Helford. Various circular walks take in pretty coves, welcoming waterside pubs and beautiful woodlands, although bear in mind that some coves are more easily accessed by boat.
The Helford ferry runs regularly from Helford Passage to Helford on demand several times a day. Carrying a maximum of 12 passengers, it connects walkers of the South West Coast Path from one side of the river to the other and takes just a few minutes compared to the 40 minutes it takes to drive around the river. The crossing has been running for centuries and is even mentioned in the Domesday Book of 1086.
Local attractions near Helford
Trebah Garden
This subtropical paradise on the north side of the Helford River is simply unmissable. Covering 26 acres, Trebah offers 4 miles of meandering paths through its glorious gardens, filled with towering palm trees and bamboo, waterfalls and ferns. In spring, the famous rhododendrons display a mass of colour and in summer, the giant gunnera plants are a sight to behold.
The lush valley wends its way down to Trebah’s own private beach where you can enjoy a paddle and a drink or an ice cream after your walk. Dogs are welcome both on the beach and throughout the garden.
Good to know
- Location: Trebah Gardens, Mawnan Smith, Falmouth TR11 5JZ
- Opening times: Open every day from 9.30, closing times vary depending on the time of year
- Dog friendly? Yes, dogs are welcome but must be kept on short leads at all times
- Stay nearby: Cedar | sleeps 6 + 3 dogs
Cornish Seal Sanctuary
Located in the charming village of Gweek a little further upriver, is the Cornish Seal Sanctuary, a charity that rescues and rehabilitates seals that are young, sick or injured before releasing them back into the sea. Visitors can watch these beautiful creatures both outside and underwater in the viewing tanks.
The sanctuary is also now permanently home to ten puffins who cannot be rehabilitated. There is a cafe on site and dogs on leads are welcome. Special experiences where you can get close to the seals and learn about their welfare are available to book in advance and all funds go to supporting the charity.
Good to know
- Location: Cornish Seal Sanctuary, Gweek, TR12 6UG
- Opening times: Open every day from 11am–4pm, with last admissions at 3pm
- Dog friendly? Yes, dogs are welcome but must be kept on leads
- Stay nearby: Old Mill Cottage | sleeps 2 + 2 dogs
Glendurgan Garden
The trio of wooded valleys that form Glendurgan is now owned by the National Trust, although the descendants of Alfred and Sarah Fox, who first developed the garden 200 years ago, still live in the main house. The Fox family also owned neighbouring Trebah and many of the plants that thrive in the gardens today were imported from warmer climes by Alfred’s grandfather, a shipping merchant.
You can find plants originating from as far afield as Australia and New Zealand, which gives Glendurgan its exotic ambience. Highlights include the Camellia Walk, which is filled with fragrance and colour in early spring, and the historic laurel maze at the heart of the gardens.
Good to know
- Location: Mawnan Smith, Falmouth, TR11 5JZ
- Opening times: Please check the Glendurgan Garden website for the latest opening days and times
- Dog friendly? Only assistance dogs are allowed in the garden of Glendurgan. However, dogs are welcome in the surrounding countryside at Bosveal a short drive away
- Stay nearby: Rivendell | sleeps 6
Helford pubs and places to eat
The Ferryboat Inn
Looking out over the calm, turquoise water of Helford Passage, this lovely pub dates back to the 16th century. Set right next to the beach, it is the perfect spot to sit in the sun and watch the boats glide past. The interior is bright and welcoming, with a roaring log fire to cosy up to in the winter. The Ferryboat Inn is one of several dog-friendly pubs in the area. High-quality, traditional pub classics are on offer, including fisherman’s pie made with locally caught fish, and fabulous roast beef served with all the trimmings on a Sunday.
Good to know
- Where is The Ferryboat Inn? Helford Passage, Cornwall, TR11 5LB
- Are dogs welcome at The Ferryboat Inn? Yes, well-behaved dogs are welcome
- Stay nearby: Trengilly Vean | sleeps 4 + 5 dogs
The Shipwrights Arms
Located on the south side of the Helford River, The Shipwrights Arms is a charming, thatched pub that sits in an idyllic spot right next to the water, with stunning views of the river. The large terrace is edged with palm trees, creating an exotic, almost subtropical, spot for a coffee or cold beer. Inside, the freshly painted, wood-panelled walls and stone floors create a relaxed and inviting ambience, whether you fancy a quiet pint with the dog or a lavish lunch with friends. Plus, every Sunday there is live music from 3pm.
The simple menu offers up freshly caught fish of the day, ribeye steak, burgers and – naturally – fish and chips, but home-cooked pizzas are also a popular house speciality, available during the summer months. Throughout autumn and winter, a mouthwatering roast is available every Sunday, with vegetarian and gluten-free options available.
Good to know
- Where is The Shipwrights Arms? The Shipwrights Arms, Helston, TR12 6JX
- Are dogs welcome at The Shipwrights Arms? Yes, well-behaved dogs are welcome
- Stay nearby: Popigale Cottage | sleeps 4 + 2 dogs
The Ship Inn
This quaint village pub with its comfortable leather sofas and cosy wood burner is located near Mawgan and has a superb menu on offer – choose from the delicious slow-cooked beef, rump steak, or fish of the day. At The Ship Inn, much of the food is sourced locally and the menu is tailored according to what’s in season. There are several vegetarian options available and on Sunday there is the choice of roast beef or a veggie alternative. Private dining is available if required, and dogs are welcome.
Good to know
- Where is The Ship Inn? The Ship Inn, Mawgan-In-Meneage, TR12 6AD
- Are dogs welcome at The Ship Inn? Yes, well-behaved dogs are welcome
- Stay nearby: Valpre | sleeps 6 + 2 dogs
Flora and New Yard Restaurant
Set in the glorious surroundings of the Trelowarren Estate, the Flora Cafe serves fabulous breakfast, lunch and evening meals, from Thursday to Sunday only. With outdoor seating overlooking the charming courtyard or a cosy interior to choose from, the cafe is equally popular for its coffee and homemade bread and pastries as well as for its delicious meals. Made with fresh, local ingredients – most of which are grown in the walled garden of Trelowarren itself or come from local suppliers – the food is prepared with both sustainability and taste in mind.
On Sunday, the adjacent New Yard Restaurant is open for lunch. With the same ethos as the Flora Cafe, this elegant, airy restaurant offers a fine dining experience for anyone seeking an upmarket Sunday roast with a twist. Starters include scallops and duck liver parfait, with just a single choice for the main course: a 60-day, dry-aged sirloin roast beef.
Good to know
- Where is Flora Cafe? Trelowarren, Mawgan, Helston, TR12 6AF
- Are dogs welcome at Flora Cafe? Yes, well-behaved dogs are welcome
- Stay nearby:Little Bojorrow | sleeps 2 + 1 dog
Stay in Helford
Whether you are keen to get out on the river or are just happy to sit back and soak up the glorious views from the riverbank, we have plenty of properties for you to browse. From charming, thatched cottages perfect for a romantic escape, to spacious modern houses with lots of space, we’ll help you find the perfect place for your Helford escape.
Disclaimer: Whilst every effort has been made to ensure the accuracy of the information at the time of writing,
please ensure you check carefully before making any decisions based on the contents within this article.