Spend the day with us in St Ives

One of the UK’s most popular coastal towns, St Ives is renowned for its beautiful beaches, vibrant art scene and picturesque streets full of independent shops and places to eat and drink. 

There’s no shortage of things to do in St Ives, whether you want to spend all day on the beach, learn to surf or take to the waves on a sea safari. You may prefer the laid-back options of exploring the shops, visiting art galleries and trying out the local foodie destinations. A relaxed itinerary was more my style – I had plans for wandering slowly, dipping in and out of shops and art galleries, and stopping regularly for delicious treats.  

I visited St Ives on a beautiful summer’s day – when the sky was blue, the sea was sparkling, and the town was noticeably busy with visitors. It’s worth bearing in mind that, in the school holidays, the car parks in St Ives fill up quickly. I parked at the rugby club and strolled down the hill into town, which took about 15 minutes (in peak times, buses are available, or you can pre-book a taxi). I recommend parking in the large car park at St Erth station and taking the scenic train to St Ives. 

Skip to sections: 

• Morning
• Afternoon
• Evening

Morning

There are so many good St Ives restaurants that it’s almost impossible to choose, but for a fabulous view, the Porthmeor Beach Café is, in my opinion, up there among the best. As you savour your food, you can look out over the long stretch of golden beach while families build sandcastles, and wobbling newbie surfers learn to ride the waves. 

The buzzing café serves breakfast from 9am in high season and has three sections: inside in the main area, in a private pod or on the covered terrace (where dogs are welcome). It’s worth booking in advance, though some walk-in tables are available every day. I couldn’t resist the buttermilk pancakes, which came with fresh fruit and lashings of maple syrup, but the renowned ‘build your own breakfast’ also looked incredible. 

Next, it was time to explore the shops in St Ives. I didn’t have an agenda – just wandering the narrow, cobbled streets, popping in and out of independent boutiques and art and craft galleries, made for a fantastic morning. If you’re visiting in the summer holidays, get started early as the streets fill up with visitors later in the day. 

The shops and galleries are mainly located along Fore Street, Wharf Road and Tregenna Place, with a few more along St Andrew’s Street, Fish Street and beyond. You’ll come across a few well-known chains, such as Mountain Warehouse, Seasalt, Finisterre and Joules. There are also plenty of unique, independent stores, including Hudson Art, The Painted Bird and The St Ives Co (all great if you’re looking for gifts), The Common Wanderer (for environmentally conscious outdoor gear) and Atlantic Shore (perfect for bringing home a traditional Cornish Guernsey sweater, some natural slippers or a fluffy sheepskin). 

As you walk, you’ll notice quite a few sweet shops – I couldn’t resist buying some handmade fudge from my all-time favourite, Roly’s Fudge Shop. For high-quality art, my favourite galleries include the New Craftsman, the Penwith Gallery (home of the venerable Penwith Society of Arts) and St Ives Ceramics – the latter selling contemporary pieces by exceptional makers as well as museum-quality ceramics.

After a couple of hours of enjoyable browsing, I made a quick pit-stop for coffee at the Yallah Café, up the steps on Wharf Road, where the seat in the front window has a great view over St Ives Harbour. Interestingly, the coffee is imported by sailing ship and roasted in Cornwall, powered by renewable energy. It’s also delicious! 

My final activity of the morning was a tour of the Barbara Hepworth Museum and Sculpture Garden, tucked away at the bottom of Barnoon Hill. It’s a sister museum to the iconic Tate St Ives, which I love – well worth a visit for its impressive collection of modern and contemporary art – but is less well known. The Hepworth Museum used to be the renowned sculptor’s home and studio, and is attached to a surprisingly large garden full of her work. It’s an oasis of calm, despite being in the middle of town, with mature trees and beautiful plants surrounding atmospheric bronze sculptures which blend easily into the surroundings. If you enjoy art or gardens, or even better, art and gardens, this is the perfect place in which to relax for a while. 

My local insider tip: As you wander around town, have fun looking out for the famous, tucked-away ‘green door’ of St Ives. It’s a social-media sensation thanks to its evocative layers of peeling paint and is reputedly more than 200 years old. It’s in the centre of town but very slightly off the beaten track, behind a bakery – can you find it? 

Afternoon

It was time for a quick lunch, and one of my favourite go-tos is a crab sandwich from The Yellow Canary Café on Fore Street. If seafood isn’t for you, however, another great option is a hot, freshly handmade Cornish pasty from St Ives Bakery, at the opposite end of the street. Choose from a classic steak, veggie options and more, in either shortcrust (more traditional) or flaky pastry. They also make an impressive range of artisanal bread and sweet pastries. 

I decided to walk off my meal with a stroll around The Island. Not actually an island, it’s a grassy peninsula between Porthmeor and Porthgwidden beaches, originally known as ‘Pendinas’, which means ‘fortified headland’. 

This is where I always come when my dog is with me. It’s one of our favourite places, a haven of relative calm away from the hustle and bustle of the middle of town. At the summit of the Island are a coastwatch lookout and the medieval St Nicholas Chapel, which is also believed to have been used in the 19th century as a lookout for smugglers. It’s not a long walk around the island, with a short climb to the top, and there are benches offering the most incredible views across the beaches and all the way to Godrevy Lighthouse. 

There’s no better way to spend a sunny afternoon than on a St Ives beach. Did you know that there are no less than six to choose from? I opted for Porthgwidden Beach, conveniently located just below The Island. Less well known than the larger Porthmeor and Porthminster beaches, Porthgwidden is sometimes known as ‘the locals’ beach’. Relatively small and sheltered, Porthgwidden doesn’t have lifeguards but is generally safe for swimming, and I enjoyed a cold-water dip before drying off in the suntrap bay. You can hire deck chairs, windbreaks and parasols from the beach shop. Anyone staying in St Ives for longer can pre-book one of the colourful pods at the top of the beach for changing and storing beach gear. Porthgwidden also has a beach café, which overlooks the golden sands and is open from 10am daily. 

Rounding off a fabulous afternoon, what could be better than a refreshing ice cream? The harbourfront has several options, but I went to the remarkable Palais Provisions, a tiny shop on the slope of Barnoon Hill, steps away from the Barbara Hepworth Museum. Here they make small-batch ice creams, sorbets and granitas using creamy milk from local farms together with organic, seasonal fruits, often from local growers and sometimes foraged. Flavours vary, but if available, try the brown bread or butter pecan – they’re out of this world. 

My local insider tip: Tiny, tidal Lambeth Walk and Bamaluz (the latter with steep stone steps down to reach it) are both dog-friendly beaches all year round, while the other beaches in St Ives have summertime restrictions between 10am and 6pm (early-morning and sunset walkies are fine). At Porthmeor and Porthminster the restrictions apply from 15 May to 30 September, but at Harbour and Porthgwidden they only apply in July and August. 

Evening

The Sloop Inn St Ives is another of the town’s renowned destinations, right on the waterfront in the heart of town. I popped in for a pre-dinner drink, enjoying the unique ambience of this characterful pub, believed to date back to around 1312. It’s always great fun sitting on the busy cobbled terrace at the front, sipping the Sloop’s very own gin and tonic, appropriately called 1312, which is distilled from Cornish potatoes and infused with a mix of botanicals, including Cornish rosemary and bay leaf.

Dinner was a special treat at Ardor, a Michelin-listed restaurant in the heart of town. Head down the steps inside the door and it has an intimate yet welcoming vibe: you’re as likely to find locals at the bar as tourists at the tables. The food is a blend of Cornish ingredients and Mediterranean inspiration, much of it grilled over charcoal. I adored the tapas plates, which included so many delicious flavours, from fried aubergine with honey to salt-and-pepper calamari. There are veggie, gluten-free, dairy-free and children’s options, too, so all kinds of groups are catered for. 

I left in time to wander in search of a beautiful sunset. Porthmeor Beach faces west, and you could do a lot worse than stroll along the sands as the sun goes down. I continued a little further, along the South West Coast Path to Man’s Head (a rocky outcrop that looks like – well, you’ve probably guessed it, a man’s head). From here there are spectacular views over the ocean, making it a fitting place for a photograph to capture the end of a memorable day in this uniquely beautiful Cornish town. 

My local insider tip: Morning, noon or night, eating any kind of takeaway food on the harbour front attracts greedy seagulls. These flying thieves have no manners and will surprise you from above or behind, snatching your treat right out of your hand. Beware!

Explore St Ives yourself

If you want to stay a while longer in St Ives and experience the town’s beaches, shops, art galleries and restaurants to the full, take a look at our hand-picked selection of St Ives holiday cottages. We have cottages to suit couples, families, large groups and guests bringing dogs. Click below to discover your next St Ives getaway. 

Written by Katherine Sorrell

Freelance Content Writer

Cornwall-based writer aiming to share my love of this inspiring place far and wide.