Katherine Sorrell
15 October 2026
The picturesque harbour town of Fowey (the name rhymes with ‘joy’) nestles on the banks of the Fowey Estuary on Cornwall’s south coast, bordered by ancient oak woodland, farmland and a string of beaches. Life in the town focuses on the water, with ferries, yachts, kayaks, paddleboards and even cruise ships coming and going, and extraordinary views everywhere you turn.
Aside from its maritime connections, there are plenty of things to do in Fowey. Independent shops and galleries of all descriptions fill the town’s enchanting, narrow streets, alongside a wide choice of cafes, restaurants, bakeries, takeaways and pubs. Plus, of course, you can take to the water, spend time at the beach or explore either the South West Coast Path or the inland route of The Saint’s Way.
On the autumn day I visited Fowey, it was warm with a little light rain, but that didn’t put me and my dog off – as far as I’m concerned, any day in Fowey is a good day, and being out of season meant fewer crowds and easier parking. And is Fowey dog-friendly? The answer is an emphatic yes. My furry pal Filo was welcomed (and offered a treat) almost everywhere we went, ensuring happiness all round.
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Morning
Our day started with a full English breakfast in Brown Sugar, one of the most highly recommended cafés in Fowey. Filo was a good boy and was given a treat by the friendly waitress, and I tucked into some excellent bacon, eggs and sausages (vegetarians and vegans are catered for too). This welcoming destination is set over two floors, with dogs allowed on the ground floor, and it’s easy to book online in advance – a good idea during busy times.
After breakfast, it was time to stretch my legs and give Filo a run. We strolled along the esplanade, enjoying idyllic views across the water to Polruan on one side and of the grand houses on the other, until we reached Fowey’s very own beach, Readymoney Cove. It’s just over half a mile from town, and the walk is mostly level.
Sheltered, sandy and completely charming, the little beach is a slice of paradise, perfect for swimming, snorkelling, paddling, sandcastle building and throwing a stick for a hound. Filo thought he was in heaven. The shop sells beach goods, gifts, drinks, pasties and locally made ice cream, and there are free public toilets and a covered beach shelter. Do bear in mind that if you’re visiting in summer, dogs are only allowed on the beach before 10am and after 6pm in July and August.
Next on the list was a climb up to St Catherine’s Castle (also known as Fowey Castle) above the cove. According to English Heritage, this is one of a pair of small artillery forts built by Henry VIII in the 1530s to defend Fowey Harbour. Filo couldn’t manage the steep, open-tread metal staircase from the beach (a shortcut, not accessible at high tide because the bottom steps are covered), so we followed the sloping path which led us through beautiful Covington Woods – a destination for a longer walk another time.
After about 300 metres we popped out onto a headland where the castle remains are free to enter. With panoramic views of the estuary, this was a chance for a break before making our way back down. I managed this short excursion in a pair of trainers, but it was uneven underfoot and walking boots would have been safer. You would also need to be cautious if the path was wet.
My local insider tip: Plan which Fowey car park you want to use in advance, especially in the summer months, when they can fill up quickly. The biggest is Main Car Park, about 350 metres up a steep hill from the heart of town. If you don’t fancy the steps and slopes, there is a minibus service which runs up and down every 15 minutes or so. Check the signs for specific times and prices. I recommend the cheaper, long-stay car park at Caffa Mill, a level walk from town past some interesting shops.
Afternoon
Filo and I had earned some lunch, and from the beach, we wandered back towards town, past the Old Grammar School Garden, a serene spot from which to enjoy the sweeping views (though not open to dogs), as well as the intriguing-looking Pinxto, an authentic, Spanish-style tapas and sherry bar.
We headed for North Street, in search of Captain Hank’s, a seasonally open, seafood venue based in a vintage Citroën van parked up on the waterfront. Everything is prepared from scratch in the van, to be enjoyed at the parasol-shaded outdoor tables (watching out for hungry seagulls) or taken away to eat at your leisure.
The 15-minute wait was well worth it – I chose a Cornish-catch fishfinger sandwich, served with house tartare sauce and seasonal salad leaves – and it was not only generous in size but also tasted amazing. Nearby North Street Kitchen, in a converted boat shed, was closed on the day I visited, but is also highly acclaimed (it’s in the Michelin guide) for both its sharing plates and cool vibes. I’ve been several times in the past and have always enjoyed it. And for anyone who prefers a pasty, I have it on good authority (my husband!) that the traditional steak version from the Quay Bakery is excellent.
For dessert, I’d been given a tip-off about the homemade brownies from Fowey River Traders, a little further along the road, and this unassuming chandlery/boutique/coffee shop did not disappoint – I picked up a sweet treat and enjoyed browsing a varied selection of clothes, deli items and gifts. If you have time to pause, the shop serves artisan coffee from Cornico too – roasted near Wadebridge, just a few miles away.
Wandering back towards Fore Street, we passed Laura Lane Ceramics, where you’ll find quirky pottery and other lovely hand-made pieces, Nature’s Window, a craft brewery and tap room with a Tex-Mex café, and Salt Society, a concept store selling timeless, sustainable clothing – one of two branches in town. As for other Fowey shops, we continued into the centre and explored a wide variety of boutiques, from chains to independents offering everything from home-made candles to cold-water swimming gear.
There’s no shortage of places to buy gifts and mementoes of your time in Fowey, including unique seaweed pressings from Molesworth & Bird, eco homewares from LIGA and printed pyjamas from Ebb & Flo. I resisted the temptations of the Fowey Sweet Shop, but spent a while browsing in Shrew Books, which has a wide selection of fiction, non-fiction, nature writing and local authors, including Daphne du Maurier, who wrote her first novel, The Loving Spirit, while living in Ferryside, the white-and-blue house you can see across the river in Bodinnick. Another must for me was a visit to Sandy Paws of Fowey, where I bought Filo a smart new collar.
Suitably refreshed, Filo and I wandered over to the quayside and, on the spur of the moment, hopped onto a boat for a 45-minute river cruise with Fowey River Trips. It was amazing to see the harbour and town from this new angle, with fascinating commentary (and a few jokes) as we passed local landmarks and places of interest. It was great value and made for a refreshing change of scene.
My local insider tip: If you can’t get to Fowey and would like a quick look at its gorgeous views, why not log onto a live webcam feed? Or see the beach and tide at Readymoney Cove.
Evening
It would be hard to think of a better destination for a pre-dinner cocktail than Samphire, which serves delicious meals and drinks from the best local ingredients, and where the panoramic views from the terrace are extraordinary. I enjoyed selecting from the list of locally produced drinks, which include various gins, rums, vodkas and beers, eventually settling on a Fowey martini, made with Ebba Tidal gin, Martini Extra Dry and samphire tincture. A real taste of Cornwall.
Finally: where to choose for supper from so many tempting Fowey restaurants? Narla is the fine-dining option run by a MasterChef finalist, with Bufala highly recommended for its Roman-style sourdough pizzas and legendary tiramisu, while Sam’s is a vibrant, local institution.
In the end, I opted for Havener’s, which has a fabulous setting on the Town Quay and offers both dog-friendly and dog-free tables. Feeling like classic fish and chips, I ordered the South West fish of the day in batter made using Gem ale (one of St Austell Brewery’s specials), which was crisp and tasty, served with crushed, minted peas, tartare sauce and curry sauce. A final treat to round off an enjoyable day of eating, drinking, shopping and exploring before saying goodbye (for now) to lovely Fowey.
My local insider tip: As you drive into town or hop off the bus, take a quick look at Fowey’s ‘pretty bus stop’ on Lankelly Lane. The shelter is furnished with chairs and a bookcase and is regularly repainted with a different theme, which over the years has included a library, a tea room and a tribute to Daphne du Maurier. The bus stop even has its own Facebook page, with more than 3,000 followers.
Stay with us in Fowey
One day gives you a taste of Fowey; stay locally and you can enjoy it at your leisure. Book a holiday cottage in Fowey and experience this picturesque town to the full. Click below to see our selection of Fowey cottages, from romantic boltholes just for two to family-friendly properties that welcome large groups.
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